In the hands of any other creator, this statement might be an apology. For Alessandro Gualtieri, on the other hand, it’s a mission statement: Blamage (“disgrace” in German) may be a testament to mistakes and failures, but the result is as vibrantly intoxicating as each of its predecessors in the now-complete Nasomatto line. Inspired by legends of classic fragrances that achieved their unique character through mistakes in the design process, Gualtieri blindfolded himself, choosing four key (and undisclosed) ingredients at random. The perfume was painstakingly constructed from there, a process (portrayed in the upcoming documentary film “The Nose- Searching For Blamage”) that took Gualtieri around the world and, supposedly, almost to the breaking point. In the end, however, this final fragrance from the much-beloved brand shines as brightly as the rest.

Bright, citrusy/woodsy spice delivers an opening reminiscent of previous Nasomatto scents- but do we detect some fruit this time around? And, concept aside, don’t worry about an apologetic sillage- as you might expect from the creator of Black Afgano, Blamage has huge projection and lasts for days. Powerful, intoxicating, and more than a little addictive, Blamage is the best possible kind of mistake- and it might just cause you to make a few mistakes you won’t regret either.